Seraphim
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Chapter Forty One Summer, 2008
America! We’re spending the summer in America. For the first time in 5 years. All sorts of family events – a family reunion and three important weddings – conspired to convince us that we should forego a summer’s sailing and spend the time “back home.”
It feels strange to be back in the USA for an extended time. We won’t go into all the logistics of our trip, and we won’t bore you with a stop-by-stop itinerary. We rented a car for the first month, and drove over 3,800 miles (6,000 km for our non-USA friends). We drove through 11 states along the way. The spring had been rainy so everything was very green and lush. We really noticed it after spending the past 4 years in the Mediterranean region, where it just doesn’t rain for months on end. It is beautiful!
We noticed other things, too. After a prolonged absence, there are certain aspects of American life that stood out. We know our fellow-Americans reading this take all this for granted, but our non-US friends who have visited the United States may recall similar sensations. In no particular order, we noticed:
Just a few photos, so you’ll get a little feel for some of our family and friends. (The handsome red-headed fellow is our grandson, Ian Muir; our nephew Will McKay is the beautiful “five-and-three-quarter-year-old”, as he proudly claims.) You’ll also see the wonderful portrait of Seraphim done by our dear friend Alvin Sinderbrand.
We’re headed back to Turkey mid-September. We’ll set sail immediately and let you know what we find in the fall. It will still be hot but we will have missed the bulk of the summer soaring temps (100+ degrees Fahrenheit). We have so much to see and do.
Life sure is good!
Chapter Forty March 1 - April 30, 2008
If you’re tired of witnessing the work, we’re certainly tired of doing the work. But the good news is it is finished. We’re ready for fun. The last stage was the annual haul-out when the underwater parts of Seraphim get their turn. This is also the time when we give the exterior teak its annual refurbishing. While “on the hard,” John received (unsolicited) advice about everything he was doing from his new best friend, Ali. Ali instructed John on the better way to do whatever job was at hand. Further, he informed Sharon that the reason John didn’t get a whole lot of work done every day was because he talked too much. Now this was not a huge revelation to Sharon but it was certainly the pot calling the kettle black; who was interrupting whom? Ten days on the hard and the jobs were complete, despite Ali and some occasional rain (rain is not conducive to painting).
One last comment before we close the work report: the repair to the teak eyebrow on the starboard side required a bit of ingenuity to clamp the repaired section in place as the glue set. Leonardo would have marveled at John’s clever engineering feat, don’t you think?
Speaking of fun, a few of our yacthie friends converted an unused storefront into an art studio this past winter, and then exhibited their work in the marina’s art gallery. The Opening Gala was attended by local dignitaries and the press, so we dressed for the occasion.
We have new-found friends who don’t happen to be sailors. Ruthe and Sharon have become fast friends and we recently had the wonderful experience of meeting the whole family. They picked us up early morning for a jaunt out to their favorite breakfast spot. It was twenty miles out into the country. We sat down under the trees for a traditional Turkish breakfast which included hot, home-made peasant bread, eggs, gozleme (spiced ground beef wrapped in a pita), olives, feta, dried apricots, tomatoes and cucumbers. We ate for hours while the children played in the gardens and in the little stream running through the restaurant. It was a real treat. But the greatest gift was meeting Ruthe’s husband and learning more about the Turkish way of life. Şener is a gem of a guy. After stuffing our bellies we were taken to the sea where we looked out onto “Cleopatra’s Island,” supposedly the place where she honeymooned with Marc Antony. The day was one we won’t forget, and the Ege family will be friends forever.
Now the real fun begins. Work is finished and it is time to relax. It is still a bit early to go sailing (it gets cold at night, and the rains still come occasionally). So we launched the season with a week’s trip to Crete. We had hoped to get there last year, but other plans got in the way, so this year we made it a priority. We flew instead of sailed. A good way to get into the swing of things, we thought. We stayed in Hania, on the northwest coast. Hania is considered the prettiest town on the island; we would heartily agree. It was wonderful being back in Greece, overindulging in our favorite foods, the sights and the people.
Crete is much larger than we imagined, and it was impossible to see the whole of it in one week, so we confined ourselves to the western end. Spectacular mountain ranges are dotted with caves and sliced by dramatic gorges. Cretans are proud and hospitable people who maintain their customs and culture. We drove through traditional mountain villages and agricultural settlements. Shepherds still tend their flocks.
The “Must Do” stop here is a visit to Knossos. The palace of Knossos was destroyed in 1450 B.C., apparently by the earthquake and tsunami associated with the destruction of Santorini, just 60 miles away. Was this the seat of legendary King Minos? Were all the kings named “Minos?” And is that how we come to call this “civilization” by the name “Minoan?” All is speculation, as very little is known for certain. But what is known is fascinating. And quite beautiful. The artwork has a clear Egyptian presence, and the technology is impressive. (Did we mention that the queen’s chambers feature a flushing toilet?) Also here is the “First Road in Europe,” which connected the palace at Knossos with that of the prince, a kilometer away.
After touring the site, we visited the Archaeological Museum to see the “real stuff” they had found. Fortunately for us, the museum is under renovation and most of the 38+ rooms are closed. Why is that “fortunate?” It is because the most important pieces have been assembled and are displayed in two rooms. So we were able to see the “key” bits of the collection in less than two hours! Now that’s Fortunate!
Sharon’s favorite parts in these things are always the fashions. (Surprise!) The frescos featured some dazzling fashions. The richness of the colors was phenomenal.
We took a leisurely drive to see the 16th century monastery of Arkadiou. It was here that Crete’s “Battle of the Alamo” took place in 1866. The gardens, renovations and atmosphere were intriguing. The traditional silver icons in the orthodox chapel were particularly interesting, but mostly because the 90-something curator oozed such pride and enthusiasm. She had countless stories to tell. All in Greek, of course.
One monk in particular caught our eye. We think he posed for some of Michelangelo’s frescoes in the Sistine Chapel.
Now that we’re truly on vacation we’re doing lots of things we haven’t done in a while. Sleeping in. Lazying around. Dreaming about our summer cruising. Even watching cruisers pass us by while gazing over the cliffs of Santorini.
Santorini is all about the views. What do you think?
We spent the week soaking in the beauty of Santorini. Morning walks along the edge of the caldera. Afternoon strolls down cobbled walks. Evening jaunts to ice cream destinations. Sounding good yet?
Now it’s time to set sail. The Turkish coast has hundreds of quiet isolated ports that we are about to discover. More on that when we return.
Until then, happy summer.
Chapter 39 January 25, 2008- March 1, 2008
We’ve been busy. Very busy. The labor is harder than any either of us can remember in all of our working careers. The details of the stories would bore you to tears, but here are the highlights:
· Both of us have recovered from falls into the sea, both having fallen from passerelles. (No photos)
· Both bikes have been in the sea and retrieved. Spare parts have also been retrieved but only after paying diver’s fees. (None here, either)
· John has rebuilt both thirty year old hatch covers. (Photos)
· With some professional assistance, we have laid a new white Formica galley countertop. (Some more photos)
· The cabin sole (“floor” to you landlubbers) has been rebuilt and refinished (also some outside help here, too), while Sharon did the annual re-varnishing of the screens and tables but without outside assistance. (Even more photos)
· We have painted the overhead. (Whew! Enough with the photos!)
We are ready for the season to begin. But the work isn’t quite complete. Mid-March we will be hauled out of the water for ten days. We will polish the hull, paint the bottom and varnish the exterior brightwork. Our families have long thought we read and goof off during the winter. Ha! Believe it or not, we both enjoy the challenge of the work, despite our occasional moaning.
With the haul-out jobs complete, we should be ready to set sail mid-April. Turkey is said to have some of the prettiest coastal harbors in all of the Mediterranean. We can’t wait to find out for ourselves.
Happy spring from our harbor to yours. (Photo)
Chapter 38 December 5, 2007- January 15, 2008
Did we say “Stay tuned for complete photos of the finished saloon?” Has Christmas come and gone? Impossible! Sharon has a favorite saying, “Life is what happens when you didn’t plan it that way”. Well, everything we planned didn’t happen. Our sole refinisher decided the varnish required a week to dry between coats so we are still struggling with coat #8. Jobs #2 and #3 are being re-evaluated. The rebuild of the hatches has been allocated to John. He is faster, more thorough, far more meticulous and a whole lot cheaper. The Formica in the galley is being installed by weeks end.
And Christmas. Well, that’s hard to celebrate in a Muslim country. But we did put our best foot forward. We orchestrated a progressive dinner on three boats here in our marina. Hor d’oeuvres were aboard a Swedish boat with pickled herring, eggs and caviar and Norwegian salmon. The traditional turkey and mashed pumpkin was celebrated American style. And dessert was hosted by us aboard our friend’s boat with Viennese Chocolate Mousse and a Pear and Pomegranate Crostata. So it did feel a little like Christmas while we were eating. We had the Christmas carols blasting for weeks prior to Christmas but the lack of twinkling lights, gay carolers, bustling street shoppers, Salvation Army bell ringers, snow and cold was glaringly obvious. So Christmas just wasn’t like any other year. But we have each other and all the joy that comes with our lives. The pristine skies, 68 degree temperatures and the endless exquisite mountains that hug the marina reminded us that there is another way to celebrate. For this we are truly grateful.
We did fit in a party here and there!
About the party. All electricity went out just minutes after all guests arrived. When our hostess (a powerhouse in the marina community) frantically expressed her concerns and interrogated the marina staff she learned the situation had gained immediate attention. She was assured power would be restored by dinner time. The local electrician who was severely afraid of heights could not climb to the top of the pole to solve the problem but his competitor from twenty miles away would arrive in less than two hours! Problem under control! And we did have a hot dinner!
The feast celebrated in Turkey while we were celebrating Christmas is called Seker Bayram. It is a three day festival that celebrates the end of Ramazan, the holy month similar to Lent. Fasting during Ramazan is one of the five pillars of Islam and for thirty days a good Muslim lets nothing pass their lips during daylight hours. No eating, drinking or smoking. Bayram is a festive time referred to as the “Sweet Holiday”. Children go from door to door in search of sweets and treats. Family and friends gather to drink tea. This “sweet” holiday is observed by all. Our Swedish friends were stopped mid-day by the Jandarma (local police) when biking to visit friends. They were immediately alarmed because they were not carrying identification which is necessary at all times. Armed with the best excuses they could come up with in a flash, they were approached. But the Jandarma didn’t interrogate them at all. Instead, they extended their hand with a fistful of sweets.
Seker Ramazan is followed by Kurban Bayram, and is the most important religious and secular holiday of the year. This is the Festival of the Sacrifice. The festival commemorates Ibrahim’s near sacrifice of Ismael, the same story as biblical Abraham and Isaac. Every year about four million rams, camels and/or cows are sacrificed. Every head of a household who can afford to buys a beast to sacrifice. Immediately following early morning prayer on the first day of the holiday, the head of the household slits the animal’s throat. One third of the meat goes to the poor, and this must be the best part. Another one third goes to your neighbor and the last one third is kept for your own family. The most significant tradition of this holiday is that everyone makes amends with anyone they may have offended during the course of the year. We learned from our Turkish teacher that this is earnestly observed. What a nice tradition.
The marina threw a nice Christmas Eve party for those of us living aboard. It was nice of them to help us celebrate, knowing we are all so far from home. A feature of the party is the Christmas Present Drawing. One-by-one, the tickets are pulled from the bin, and the presents could be anything from a free haircut to discounted laundry services, to apparel donated by the local shops. John’s ticket number was pulled about half-way through. He won!!!
Only to discover he had incorrectly heard the number called, and he actually lost! Aww….
New Years festivities abound here in Turkey. Turks celebrate the evening with family and friends enjoying homemade food and drink and playing tombala (a form of bingo). At midnight ladies give each other red knickers symbolizing the hope that the recipient will never be short of new clothes in the New Year. We traveled over to the larger marina outside town to celebrate with friends. The food was superb and the entertainment was fabulous. The tradition on New Years Eve in Turkey is belly dancing. So there were two professional belly dancers performing after dinner. It was phenomenal. They were beautifully dressed, of course, with tiaras and fringe in all the right places. It was wildly entertaining.
We hired a small bus called a dolmus to take us to and from the party. But we learned later that we exceeded the limit by two. The driver consented to take the extra two people only if we would agree to share in the expense of the fine should we encounter one. We agreed, of course, but resolved that the two most petite women would be referred to as children should a problem arise. Cute children, yes?
There are other interesting tidbits that keep us involved and interested in local community events such as the Ladies Holiday Bazaar. There were homemade everythings from cake, breads, pies and chutneys to hand-knit baby items and crocheted toilet paper holders.
Then there was the Children's Art Opening. All proceeds go to "Send the Girls to School Foundation". It was very sweet. And every week we frequent the market at Beldibi. We ride our bikes and visit our favorite ladies for the freshest produce in town and hit the bakery on the way back. Big Sunday treat.
Also worth mentioning is the Turkish Bazaar which houses hundreds of vendors selling clothing, jewelry, antiques, ceramics, carpets, silver, you name it. Sharon headed out on a search for some perfume recently. After a bit of shopping around she chose an American brand but didn’t like the price so she returned it to the shelf where she took it. The merchant said to her “When you see the sign in other shops that says 3 for 30 TYL, don’t believe it. They’re fake”. Sharon said “Really?” He assured her it was true. Eventually she decided on another brand and as she was driving away she said “By the way, is mine real?” He said “Oh no. Nothing’s real in Turkey. Only the sun”. She laughed hysterically and drove away. Turkey’s great.
In between the galley refit, the painted overhead and varnished sole we are re-caulking all the stanchion plates on deck. In fact, we are making a master carpenter out of John. He has spent three weeks rebuilding our hatches. Our Turkish refinisher was far too slow and we finally decided we could wait no longer. We received a second bid that was so astronomical that we decided to tackle it ourselves. John did a better job than any professional because he was meticulous in his work, all the time fearing he would make a mistake. We will soon have beautifully varnished non-leaking 30 year old hatches that look brand new. So for those of you who thought we watch videos and sip tea in mid afternoon in the winter months you can see you were seriously wrong. We’re working hard. But we have long dreamy sails in the Aegean to look forward to when the work is all done.
Güle güle!
Chapter 37 November 1 – December 5, 2007
With our extensive fall travel schedule behind us it was time to settle down and get to work. The “annual maintenance list” grows throughout the year and this year’s list seemed to be fairly “normal” in comparison to every other year. Until we decided the cabin sole (“floor” for you landlubbers) finally needed refinishing. And while we’re at it, why not “freshen” the overhead (“ceiling”)? So we have. But we’re not finished. The sole was removed from the boat three weeks ago, November 11th to be exact. We’re promised that all will be gorgeous by Christmas. But this is Turkey. And they don’t celebrate Christmas here. So we’re relying on hope and faith.
However, to clarify, we have found a wonderful cabinet maker to repair and varnish our sole. Ismail is Turkish and he is known around the yard as “Apache”. Although he could be mistaken for an American Indian the real reason he is so known is because he drives a 1959 American Chevrolet Apache pickup truck. He is very proud of it, too. He is a skilled and meticulous craftsman and thus far we are pleased. Our boat builder back in Rhode Island told us to be sure we refinished our sole with a minimum of seven coats of varnish. When Ismail told us the sole required ten, he got the job. The center section of the sole has actually been sliced in half to make it possible to get it through the companionway so the proper repairs could be made in Ismail’s workshop. It’s an extensive project.
While Ismail is repairing, we have been painting. Seven years ago we had the overhead painted; we were thrilled with a job we thought we’d never do again. Oh, were we wrong! Nothing is forever on a boat. This time was our turn. It is a grueling, neck breaking, time consuming job. But once we got into the groove of things, we worked steadily together. With a lunch break to divide the day, we were able to persevere. Two coats of glossy white paint in between sanding and tacking took exactly three weeks, working full days, every day. Mission accomplished. We’re thrilled and it looks gorgeous.
All this renovation means Seraphim is uninhabitable. Fortunately, we have friends. So while the work continues, we have been camping out on our friends' boat, Kuhela. Phil and Mary have returned to the USA for the winter, and have generously allowed us to use their boat as a refuge from the sawdust, varnish and general disarray. Thanks, folks!
While we haven’t had a lot of time to be social, we have certainly made efforts to get acquainted with Turkey. Here’s how we’re doing it.
We are amongst twenty couples living aboard their boats in the marina. Of the twenty, only six are here for the winter months. That leaves a pretty small group. We celebrated Thanksgiving together, us being the only Americans. Thanksgiving was hosted by the marina at a local restaurant right on the waterfront. It was called the “Even-If-You’re-Not-American Thanksgiving Dinner and Dance”. The turkey and gravy even came with rice, cranberry jelly and apple pie and ice cream for dessert. We had a lovely evening with friends and the gathering helped reduce our longings for home.
Unlike any other marina we’ve been in, we seem to have a “boys club” and a “girls club.” The girls walk every morning, religiously. They also do the weekly Thursday market, various shopping trips on a regular basis and random biking jaunts have just begun. The men do coffee. And coffee. And what appears to be formulating is the semblance of a “skipper’s meeting”, around coffee. Things are perking along on everyone’s boat, as each of us goes down his/her To Do List. We like it.
There is also the Sunday market in the nearby town of Beldibi. This is a weekly year-round food and flea market. You can purchase anything from fake Louis Vuitton handbags, Calvin Klein jeans and Nike sneakers to home-dried hot peppers, peasant bread and home-grown garlic scallions (no kidding). It’s a real sport. We ride our bikes the twelve or so kilometers and stop at the fragrant family bakery on the return trip for a large double macaroon and Turkish coffee.
Several weeks ago we went on a search for bicycles. The town of Marmaris is large enough that we need some form of transportation to get the most out of it. After a long day of searching for reasonably priced bicycles, we were returning home discouraged. Until, that is, we stopped in to see a particular shopkeeper who spoke brilliant English. He sent us to his friend and with some superb negotiating skills we purchased two, “previously-owned” bicycles. Some say Sharon’s bike has developed some real character (she painted it). It’s been dubbed the “red Cadillac”.
Then there’s our Turkish lessons. Weekly, at the marina office for one hour. We’ve got the daily greetings down, our numbers and the bare basics. It’s fun. We’re making progress. If nothing else, the Turks appreciate our efforts and we can at least count our change!
Ned Pamphilon, a British artist living and working in Istanbul, came to Marmaris to open an exhibition of his works at the marina gallery. He has been working for ten years to promote Turkey as “East meets West.” His artwork has great color, life and vibrancy. As part of promoting his art, he occasionally paints murals on buildings. Of course, he did so here. We enjoyed talking with him as he painted. When it looked as though he wasn’t going to meet his deadline we volunteered to help out. So here we are! That’s John on the ladder and, as always, Sharon supervising! We think it came out well, don’t you?
On Sunday we took a day off work and went on a hike with about 50-60 others. The distance point-to-point was only a few miles, but most of the trek was up-down the sides of the hills, and it was much more strenuous than we had anticipated. The few miles we traveled took almost four hours! The day was spectacular: clear, brilliantly blue skies, crystal-clear blue waters, green tree-covered hills. We only got lost once, but that resulted in having to rappel down a rather steep cliff-face for about 20 feet. A Great Day in the Great Outdoors! Any excuse is used to rest our weary necks, but unbeknownst to us, this was to be just another form of physical abuse! Getting out of bed the next day or two was tough. But we enjoyed it anyway!
One of the greatest aspects of being in Marmaris is waking up to the extraordinary mountains that surround us. The morning mist is remarkable. The clouds are the best we’ve ever seen.
Enjoy the season. Stay tuned for photos of the finished saloon.
Chapter 36 September-October, 2007
In mid-September we returned from our annual trip back to the USA. The weather in Turkey was still quite warm, and as soon as we could, we left the marina to seek some relief from the heat in the coves and bays away from the town. Our “mini-cruise” took us down the coast to a lovely little bay where we stayed for several days. Two family-run restaurants competed for the yachts’ business, one at each end of the bay. We accepted the free mooring offered by one of the restaurants. These people were so eager to have the chance to get business from us that they rowed their heavy, wooden boats out into the bay and called and whistled to each entering yacht with their offer of a mooring. Once tied to the mooring, they came alongside and “invited” us to dine in their restaurant. (In the several days we were there, we did not see the lights come on in the restaurant even once.) When they discovered we were not interested in eating in the restaurant, they attempted to sell us various items from their gardens. Honey, fresh and dried figs, dried apricots, olive oil and so on. There was even some hand-made needlework offered for sale. These people were working hard! One time the man came alongside and asked to speak to “the woman.” I told him Sharon was down below and would be with him in a moment or two. After he waited for about 5 minutes, he asked if she were sleeping. I finally had to tell him where she really was. (She was in the head.) He waited! And made a small sale. On Saturday, he came by asking if we would like some fresh bread in the morning. Wanting to give him some business, we agreed that two loaves would be nice. In the morning he arrived with our two loaves of bread: each loaf was over two pounds! How we were going to consume this much bread we didn’t know, but buy it we did.
Now it was time to return to the harbor, and begin to explore Turkey by land.
Turkey.
Just the sound of it is exotic. Up until now, we have been in Europe, where we feel more or less at home. But now we are officially in Asia, and everything is new and different. Church spires have been replaced by minarets, and bells by ezan, the five-times daily Muslim call to prayer. It is time to explore!
Our first foray into the interior was to Cappadocia. This is a fantasy land. Three nearby volcanoes covered the entire area with layers of ash more than 30 million years ago. Wind and water erosion have created wondrous shapes as valleys were carved out of the plain of ash. Men and women have inhabited the area for more than 3,000 years, and they added carvings of their own making homes and churches out of the soft tuffa. The result is spectacular! So-called “Fairy Chimneys” shoot up everywhere, many with mushroom-shaped “caps” of harder stone, and the valleys take on magical shapes and forms as the sun changes the lighting during the course of the day. Early in the morning the sky is filled with hot-air balloons, adding even more color to the landscape. We really loved or time there. Even our hotel room was carved out of the stone; we slept in a cave!
You may have noticed some small, round holes in the walls, high up. These holes are for pigeons. Pigeons have been raised in this area for many years; the droppings are highly valued as fertilizer for their grapes. Our guide told us that 50-60 years ago the pigeons were so plentiful that flocks would blot out the sun when they all flew together. Now, all that is left are the roosting holes in the rock.
While in Göreme (our home village in Cappadocia) we visited a pottery factory, where they gave us a demonstration of their skills. Sharon had a try, and that experience gave us an even greater appreciation of how skilled these craftsmen are.
In our tour of Cappadocia, we stopped to examine the tomb of Haci Bektas Veli, one of the great 13th century Islamic philosophers. His teachings were revolutionary at the time (some Muslims consider them revolutionary even today). He taught, for instance:
At the well, the water came from the mouth of a lion in repose. We were told that the resting lion is a symbol of hospitality. The meaning seems to be “Come. Rest. I shall not harm you, so long as you do not harm me. But do not forget: if you wrong me, I am a lion.”
For a while, our route followed the famed Silk Road, over which camel caravans brought the silks and spices of the Far East to Europe for 1,000 years. We stopped to tour Sultanhani, the largest han (or resting place) built by the sultan in 1229. Judging by the size of the storerooms, those camel caravans must have been huge enterprises.
Along the way we stopped to explore the beautiful valley leading to Lake Egirdir. This area is famous throughout Turkey for its apples, and we saw the season’s apple crop being harvested. There were mountains of apples, and after gathering them alongside the road they were sorted by hand for shipment. We stopped to ask the people sorting the apples if they would allow us to take some photos. We left not only with photos, but also with some of the best apples we had ever eaten!
The large lake provided a great setting for our overnight stay; our pension was right on the tip of the peninsula you can see jutting into the clear waters.
Istanbul was next. John’s brother David and his wife Julie had come to visit, and we met them here. We had a great time visiting as we toured the fabulous sites in Istanbul. John has been talking about Istanbul ever since he first visited on a business trip many years ago, and it was exciting to see that he had not exaggerated about the wonders of Topkapi Palace and the Aya Sofya. We had two days of rain, but other than curtail our photography, we were not very inconvenienced.
Of course we spent far too much time in the bazaars, but what the heck? Our $12 designer chambray shirt was worth the visit. There are knock-off markets everywhere in the world! The spice bazaar is particularly colorful and aromatic.
Next we toured historical Ephesus. On our way, we stopped in Izmir to meet up with John’s old friend, Ahmet Apkinar. Ahmet was his usual, gracious self, and regaled us with a foreshortened history of Izmir and Turkey, as well as a few well-chosen comments on the state of the world today.
Ephesus is a really big site. Over 200,000 people lived here at one time, and to date only about 15% has been excavated, but what has been unearthed is quite impressive. Most of what we saw is from early-Roman times, but still with a very strong Greek influence. Most of the writings we saw, for instance, are in Greek, and the Greek gods were worshipped rather than those of Rome. The famous Temple to Artemis was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the foundation stones that can be seen today are testimony to its size and grandeur. Normally situated in a swamp, the area is now high and dry after several years of drought in this part of Turkey. The archeologists have reconstructed the façade of the great Library of Celsus; it gives a sense of the wealth and beauty of the city.
Tradition has it that Mary, the mother of Jesus, was brought here by John and later died here. The “official site” of Mary’s house is not far from Ephesus, and we took the opportunity to visit. The site is high in the mountains above the city proper, and is a quiet, peaceful setting for a reconstructed 1st century stone house. If Mary and John did live here, they certainly selected a lovely place.
Back home in Marmaris, it was now time for us to leave again. Our Tourist Visas are good for only 90 days, and our time has run out. The “normal” way the yachties handle this is to take the ferry to Rhodes, get their passports stamped by the Greek authorities, and return. The ferry ride is just an hour and many go and return the same day. We had never been to Rhodes, so we spent a few days to take a look around. The beginning of our tour was delayed two days by the weather; the seas were too rough for the ferry to run. But once we made it, we were immediately elated to be back in Greece. It almost felt like coming home to us. (We were even excited about the availability of Greek bread!) Rhodes itself is most interesting; it is the only medieval area of Greece we had seen. We loved walking through the little streets and back alleyways. The old city of Rhodes is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the Mediterranean area.
Our accommodations were pretty nice, too. We thought it was too cold to swim, but the sun-starved Brits who made up most of the guests thought it was a fine Summer’s day.
Naturally, all cannot be perfect with any trip. Somehow we missed the return to Standard Time, and so we arrived at the ferry an hour early. But much better this way than the other.
We are now ready to get on with the winter and our winter boat projects. The “To Do List” is growing, so we’ll have plenty to keep us busy.
Cheers!
Chapter 35: May, June, July, 2007
It has been a full summer! We had guests on board for the first time since our Atlantic crossing with Bernard in 2004, and it has been terrific to share our adventure again.
Most of May was spent cruising northwards with our long-time friend, Jon Stoddard. Jon joined us in Mykonos early in the month and we island-hopped to the north of Greece. Tinos, Andros, Evia, Skyros, Skiathos, Skopelos. The list of islands sounded vaguely familiar before, but now each has taken on a personality for us. We had visited Tinos last fall, but this time we were able to tour the island’s famous school for sculptors. Here students learn to carve marble in the tradition of the great Greek sculptors of ages past. The work is not only interesting, but the skills of the students are impressive.
Andros was a pleasant surprise. Important as a shipping center a century or so ago, the main town has now experienced a revival of sorts as well-heeled Athenians seek a place to escape for the weekend. Many of the old homes in the town square are being beautifully restored.
We were rained out of our first tour of Skyros, but next day we rented a car for an inside tour. The island is out of the way, and not many tourists visit here. But it’s simple and sweet and we loved the winding alleyways and small villages overlooking the sea.
Skiathos was the first truly “tourist-destination island” we visited in this northern part of the Aegean. It is filled with resorts, and the airport is a constant flow of charter jets from northern Europe filled with holiday-makers. One of those holiday-makers concluded his week’s yacht charter by colliding with Seraphim as he was backing into a berth. The captain, of course, departed the following morning and left us to negotiate with the charter company for the damages. Little was happening (“Tomorrow, tomorrow, etc.”) until John visited the Captain of the Port seeking advice. Fortunately, the Captain refused to allow the Athens-based charter company to rip off a tourist, and forced them to make a reasonable settlement. Needless to say, we made our exit as soon as possible to avoid another run-in with these inexperienced sailors.
And a good thing we did, too. After a night at anchor in a secluded cove on Skopelos, we arrived at Skopelos Town just in time to see the town turn out for a major holiday festival, complete with music, dancing and a bake-off! A tasty treat for all the senses.
Most of the cruise went off without a hitch (other than the mishap with the charter boat) until we made a rather “rookie mistake.” The forecast was for light winds, so we decided to tow our dinghy to the next anchorage. Only 25 miles. No sweat. Ha! The winds built steadily to over 40 knots, and the dinghy flipped over on its painter. It felt as though we’d deployed a sea anchor, and the strain on the whole rig was intense. John and Jon fought with the dinghy and managed, after some rather tense minutes, to right the dinghy and on we sailed. But not for long. Within a minute the whole scene repeated itself, but this time the dinghy was even more difficult to get under control, and we were within minutes of cutting the dinghy loose. But eventually we did get it under control and righted. We were concerned about doing damage to both the dinghy and Seraphim, so we ended up holding the dinghy up to the side of the hull to prevent its blowing away again. By this time the wind was a fierce 48 knots. The harbor we labored into was just what the doctor ordered; perhaps the best “hurricane hole” we have ever seen.
Our Early Summer Cruise ended in Sani, a rather fancy resort and marina on the Kassandra Peninsula just south of Thessaloniki. Costas and his family (who else?) have a weekend retreat here, and we so wanted to see them all again. Jon flew on to Athens for a quick tour before returning to the States. We were sorry to see him go, but excited all the same: our niece, Sarah O’Neill would be arriving within the week and our Mid-Summer Cruise 2007 was about to begin. Our plan for Sarah was to explore the northern and eastern Greek islands of the Aegean, ending up in Turkey six weeks later.
Realize that Sarah, age 16, had never spent much time on any boat, much less a sailboat. Would she manage the small space? Would she be able to sleep on the hard settee? (No problem there!) Would she be seasick? Homesick? Well, we had nothing to worry about; Sarah was a joy to be with from beginning to end.
Our first “stop” was a cruise-by of Mount Athos, the “Holy Mountain” of Greek Orthodoxy. A cruise-by was necessary because no women are allowed on Mount Athos, and boats are required to stay at least 1 kilometer from the coast. We arrived on station just as the sun was rising over the mountain, and the view of the monasteries was spectacular. Orthodox monks from all over the world have made Mount Athos home for over 1,000 years. We especially liked this monastery perched over the sea:
We were to stop on ten islands in all, but the highlights were expected to be Lesvos, Patmos and Kos. They were all interesting, and we found some of the others enchanting, too.
First “real” stop: the harbor at Molivos, Lesvos. The small harbor just had enough room for three or four yachts, and for the first day there we were alone. Then a rather stylish 47-foot Dutch sloop came in and moored next to us. Peer and Silvia became instant friends, and we had a great time cruising together for the next week.
Lesvos was a great way to get the cruise going. The island is filled with surprises. It is predominately mountainous and very fertile. It holds the prize for the best olive oil in Greece and award-winning goat cheese. A huge artist community, a reported 279 species of birds and Sappho, one of the greatest poets of ancient Greece, all call Lesvos “home”.
We visited the wonderful tiny museum just down the coast. Here we feasted on hundreds of first-edition prints made by Picasso, Matisse, Chagall and others. John was most excited by Matisse, Sarah by Chagall, and Sharon by everything. Later on we visited the petrified forest at the western end of the island and received a good natural history lesson as Seraphim sat out a near-gale in the protected anchorage just below.
By this time, Sarah was starting to get the hang of things on Seraphim and it was good to have an extra hand on board.
We were generally unimpressed with Khios. The island itself held little interest for us outside of the two mountain villages we visited. In one, the villagers had developed an unusual way of decorating their homes, covering the stucco first with a black layer of cement before the final white coating. The white coating is then scraped away in lovely geometric patterns revealing the black underneath. We also loved watching the village women sitting outside visiting as they did their needlework.
Patmos is special. Here St. John had his vision and wrote Revelations (or The Apocalypse, depending on which Bible you are reading). Photos are not allowed in the cave where John did his work, but the monastery atop the hill offers a great view of the harbor.
The boat next to us in the harbor had a load of Italian charterers aboard. They were lovely people, and we got to know them as together we waited out another near-gale. One evening, as they were going out to dinner they invited Sarah to join them. (We were the designated “boat watchers” for the evening.) Sarah had a fine time with them, getting to know these middle-aged Italians and dining on goat for the first time.
John was insistent we stop on Samos, as it is the home of Pythagoras, the great mathematician of ancient Greece. That stop became a highlight of our summer, but not because of Pythagoras. The island itself is charming, especially the villages high in the hills overlooking the Aegean Sea. The forecast was near-gale conditions lasting for several days. We took the opportunity to take an unscheduled side-trip to Mykonos. We all three jumped on the morning ferry and spent the next three days visiting friends we had made over the winter. We stayed with friends on the beach at Agios Ioannis (the 1980’s film “Shirley Valentine” was filmed here), and showed Sarah the sights we had come to love so during our stay here. Of course, we checked in at Costas’ house to report on the progress there. (It looks great!)
The really hot weather returned as soon as the winds died, and did we suffer! Temperatures inside the boat reached 102° F, and there was nowhere to hide from the scorching sun. If we were in an anchorage, we could usually go for a swim to cool off a bit, but within minutes we were sweating again.
A quick poke into the harbor at Kos convinced us we wanted/needed to be somewhere else. The old harbor was filled to overflowing with day-tripper boats, and the nearby marina was booked solid. We decided to cruise around to an anchorage on the southwest coast of the island, and found ourselves in the delightful little town of Kamari. Here we not only rented a small car to explore the rest of the island (very nice), but we also discovered a swimming pool! A tiny little “resort” with about three rooms sat adjacent to the car rental office. We saw they had a pool, and inquired about whether it was “available” to non-guests. “Come ahead, anytime,” was the response, so next day we spent most of the day cooling off in the tiny pool next to the car rental.
From here it is just a few miles to Marmaris, Turkey, the terminus of our little cruise. We needed to check out of Greece so our papers would be in order when we arrived in Turkey, and we selected the island of Simi as our final Greek island. We should backtrack just a bit and tell you that our friends on Mykonos, Theo and Irene, have a distant relative on Simi, and we were sent off with the usual instructions: “If you ever get to Simi, be sure to look up….” You know how it goes. But this time, we recalled that the relative was a jeweler, and we just happened to spot the shop upon our arrival. Another new Greek friend!
So, after six glorious weeks with Sarah we arrived in Turkey without incident. The most significant occurrence on this leg of our voyage was the deepening of our understanding of, and love for, Sarah O’Neill. She was a dynamic crew member and we already miss having her on board. Her presence this summer enriched our experience greatly.
The temperatures have not let up in weeks, and we are looking forward to our trip home with Sarah and some cool New England evenings.
Stay tuned. Next Chapter, Turkey!
Chapter Thirty-Four March 24, 2007- May 1, 2007
We bid a fond farewell to our friends in Mykonos on April 1st. And headed for
Syros, just 18 nm away where Seraphim rested for the winter. We spent exactly
four weeks preparing the boat for the season, record time, in fact. Fortunately,
we were able to do some of the more difficult jobs while in
Mykonos in the fall. The work was hard and
steady but we launched as planned to the day!
Of course, John never seems to think he’s done; here he is still painting the
bottom as the tractor pulls the boat away.
We did take out two days while in Syros to explore. One experience was to
celebrate the festivities around Easter which were wonderful. Easter is the
biggest holiday of the year here in Greece, far more important than Christmas.
Emphasis is placed on the Resurrection rather than on the Crucifixion, so it is
a joyous occasion. The festival begins on Good Friday when a representation of
Christ’s funeral is carried through the streets to the local church. In Syros
three churches converged in the town square. The Town Hall was bathed in purple
light for the occasion.
The moving candlelit procession is conducted in villages throughout the country.
The Resurrection Mass begins at 11 P.M. on Saturday evening. At midnight, packed
churches are plunged into darkness to symbolize Christ’s passing. The ceremony
of the lighting of the candles that follows is the most significant moment in
the Orthodox year. The flame has been brought from the “mother church” in
Constantinople (the Greeks still refer to Istanbul as “Constantinople”). The
celebration ends in fireworks which seemed most appropriate, although somewhat
dangerous. (There were small explosions all around us.) The Lenten fast ends on
Easter Sunday with the cracking of red-dyed Easter eggs and an outdoor feast of
roast lamb followed by Greek dancing. On our bus ride to the coast for our
Easter dinner we saw dozens of lambs being roasted on their spits. Easter in
Syros was charming.
Our second “day off” was to enjoy the countryside. We made friends with, Henk, a
fellow sailor from Belgium. Henk introduced us to the countryside via motorcycle
one late afternoon while on our way to use his washing machine. That gave us the
itch to explore further. So we rented a car and ventured out. The rolling hills,
ancient walls, stone houses scattered throughout the hills and grazing animals
were pristine and delightful. We meandered through the hills and even followed
the tracks of a bee-keeper for part of the afternoon. Fortunately we were able
to dodge the strays. Lunch was in a small, local taverna with spectacular views
of the sea.
Syros is a lovely island in the center of the Cyclades. Here we met wonderful
people, as we have everywhere in Greece. John made friends with our chandler who
led to evening dinners and good camaraderie. The wonderful thing about Syros is
that it is a year-round island, unlike Mykonos. It has 20,000 inhabitants and a
very active community. This was a welcome change from our winter home and we
enjoyed the scurry of activity. Syros was once the ship building capital of the
world back in the mid 1830s. The industry flourished and attracted expert
builders and captains from ports all over the world. This benefited trade and
brought about other important industries including tanning, iron and even
insurance. This peak period of prosperity and economic growth is reflected in
the magnificent neoclassical mansions in the heart of town overlooking the sea.
These are large stately homes, usually three floors to catch the views with
magnificent detail including wrought iron windows and balconies. Unfortunately,
most are crumbling from neglect but slowly courageous Greeks are purchasing them
for ridiculously low prices with hopes of saving them. Our friend, Manoulis,
recently purchased one consisting of 18 rooms. He says he has to wait to afford
the reconstruction but he really wanted to save this beautiful house.
Syros consists of two tall “pyramid type” hills located just above the port. One
is the Catholic hill, the other is the Orthodox hill. To reach the top of Ano
Syra, the Catholic community, one must climb 870 wide cobbled steps. There are
no cars on the hill, just winding narrow backstreets, twisting each and every
way to give a full view of the city below. Walking along the intricate network
of alleyways, you have the feeling that you’ve walked “back in time”. There are
tunnels built of stone, common areas, miniscule backyards and you’re often
confused with what’s public and what’s not. But it all adds to the character.
Take a look.
Then there’s the people…..
What we found most interesting about Syros is the dichotomy of lifestyles. While
touring through the countryside we encountered a simplicity and almost primitive
lifestyle which was very enticing. There are still people here who travel via
donkey and live off the vast barren land without electricity and running water.
Their homes are often two rooms built of solid stone surrounded by rugged
farmland.
Our friend Henk’s house has been expanded in the last several decades, but parts
of his home are 900 years old!
Conversely, walking through downtown Syros is as modern an experience as almost
any American town, with people attached to their cell phones. Adding spice to
the experience is the magnificent difference between each island. Each has its
own style, its own personality and much to enjoy. There is tremendous rivalry
between them too, which adds even more flavor!
Food has been a fun experience here in Greece, too. Pork, of course, is a
staple. But the Easter season introduces many rituals. Every morsel is laced
with symbolism. Carnival refers to the three weeks of indulgence when you can
smell the grills cooking meat everywhere. The forty days of Lent are the best
time to eat vegetarian fare, with special dishes that have no meat or dairy
products, or even oil if you go strictly by the book. “Tsoureki”, a brioche
style bread is a favorite. Sharon has mastered “tzatziki”, a traditional “side”
served at almost every meal. It is yoghurt heavily laced with garlic, cucumber,
oil and oregano served with a chunk of bread. Yum. The hills are full of thyme
and sage everywhere. We grabbed as much as we could use while walking.
Now that we’ve seen Syros and Seraphim is sparkling, we’re ready to move on. We
will greet our first guest in early May for a three week tour of the Northern
Greek islands. Jon is a long time friend from New York and an avid sailor. We
expect to show him Evia, Skiathos, Skyros, Pigueri and eventually Thessaloniki.
We are really looking forward to a leisurely summer. Following Jon’s departure
we will welcome our 16 year old niece who will spend six weeks with us enjoying
the Northeastern Aegean Islands. Sarah has never been out of the United States
so it would be fair to say we may surprise and delight her with a few
experiences this summer! By the end of July, we will tuck Seraphim in a marina
in Marmaris, Turkey before we fly home for a family wedding. But a lot will
happen in between! Until next time,
Γειά σος!
Chapter Thirty-Three January 11 – February 24, 2007
When we returned to Mykonos in January it felt like we were coming “home.” Our
time here has been so filled with events and people that we shall find it very
difficult to leave. So we’ll just have to make the most of the time left to us.
This past month has flown by as we have been busy with touring, friends, and
“work.”
Work on Costas’ house had come to a standstill after the Christmas holidays as
workers drifted back to Mykonos from their homes and families in Albania. We
decided to take advantage of the lull and make our way to Athens. The day we
left on the ferry, the sun was shining brightly and the day was warm as spring.
The weather held for our entire stay in Athens, so we had an easy time walking
around the city. Our hotel was just a stone’s throw from the Acropolis, and
everything was close by.
You can read all about the Acropolis, its temples, the antiquities in the
National Archaeological Museum, and the Theater of Dionysius in any good
guidebook so we won’t try to compete with their wonderful descriptions of these
treasures. We spent an entire morning roaming over the Acropolis, and the better
part of an entire day in the National Archaeological Museum, and were totally
enthralled with what we saw there. Our morning on the Acropolis was sunny, but
quite windy, and I was very afraid that Sharon would be swept away by the wind.
After all, there is no “Health & Safety” or “OSHA” in Greece, and guardrails and
safety fences are unheard of.
We especially loved this profile of “Aphrodite”. The breathtaking phenomenon is
she is dated 460 BC. Hard to believe? We thought so, too.
And then there were the sarcophagi. These were much newer. (150 AD!)
The gold “Mask of Agamemnon” was here, too. We think the date is 11th century
B.C. We had seen the grave in Mycenae from which it came when we toured the
Peloponnese last November.
Because we have been staying in the Cyclade Islands, we took a morning to see
the exhibit of ancient Cycladic Art in its own, private museum. Most of the
collection is from 3,000-2,000 B.C., and we became quite enamored with the art,
especially the marble figurines. After studying it, the figurines take on a
sweet purity of form that is very pleasing. Sharon marveled over the decorative
gold ornaments used to decorate clothing of the rich and famous just 4,000 years
ago.
Sharon has been working on a sewing project, and we found the time to do some
shopping for that, too. Athens is an interesting city, and we enjoyed eating in
the local tavernas and walking the neighborhoods.
Then, to our utter amazement, Costas and Maria came to Athens on a business
trip. They were kind enough to give us a driving tour of the outer parts of the
city, including some of the 2004 Olympic Games venues. The Olympic Stadium is
most impressive, and quite the engineering feat. Afterwards we lunched in the
fashionable Kolonaki neighborhood and got in some great people-watching. But the
best part of their visit was Saturday night. Costas and Maria had arranged for
tickets to a nightclub, and what a show it was! The featured performers were
Marinella and Adonis Remos. Marinella is a pop icon in Greece, and Remos is a
hot star in his own right. Even though there is a 25-year age difference, they
made a fabulous singing duo on the stage that night. For our US readers, try
imagining Barbara Streisand performing with Harry Connick, Jr., and you’ll come
close to what we experienced. The club was packed with over 2,000 people, and
the show went on for hours; it started at midnight and was just beginning to
wind down when we left at 4:30 a.m. We would have stayed, but just had enough
time to return to our hotel, pack, and catch the 5:00 a.m. subway to make our
way to our ferry back to Mykonos. No sleep for us that night! But what an
evening!!! At this huge club, the show was ending with patrons jumping up on the
stage and dancing to the music with Remos and the band. The Greeks really do
know how to party!! Suddenly Athens transformed itself and became an
exhilarating, exciting city that we couldn’t wait to return to. Amazing what a
few friends can do!
Soon after returning to Mykonos, we hooked up again with our Greek-American
friends, Ioannis and Dimitra. “John” and Dimitra are Greek, but each had
immigrated to the United States in search of work. They met in New York, and
were married there. Later they operated a restaurant together in (get this!)
Hartford, Connecticut. They lived in the USA for 35 years, and are naturalized
citizens. They returned to Mykonos to retire; this is Ioannis’ hometown. What
wonderful people they are! They have invited us to their home for meals and
coffee, and have introduced us to so many Mykonian traditions. Last Saturday
night, they were invited to the wedding of a friend’s daughter and they asked us
if we had ever seen a Greek wedding. When we said “No,” they insisted that we
accompany them. So we did. The groom was the first to arrive; he was accompanied
by his family and they were all led down the street by two musicians playing
violin and bazooki. He (the groom) then waited for the bride at the door of the
church, holding her bouquet of flowers. Her family then arrived, again
accompanied by the same musicians. The streets around the church are so narrow
and twisty that cars cannot pass through them, so both families and all the
guests arrived on foot.
Once inside, the ceremony began. Three Orthodox priests and a cantor sang the
entire liturgy a capella. Rings and vows were exchanged. During the vows reading
the priest tells the bride she will "obey her husband". At this time, the bride
chooses to stomp on the groom's foot. Or not. Everybody roars. As the ceremony
continued, much of which we did not fully understand, the groom looked across
the heads of the congregation (all the guests stand and crowd around the couple
during the ceremony; it has a real “community” feel to it) and saw my face. I
saw a flicker of astonishment cross his face as he wondered “Who is he and what
is he doing here?”, but we were generally made to feel welcome. We slipped out
before we had to pass through the receiving line, and went home. But it was fun
being there and lovely to see. Ioannis and Dimitra stayed at the reception until
3:00 a.m., eating, drinking and (of course) dancing.
This being the last weekend before Lent, there were more visitors to the island
than usual, and we ventured into town on Sunday to check out the “action.” We
had lunch in a seaside taverna, and then went to see the celebration in the
local “theater.” The theater is built in the Greek tradition, is outdoors and
has tiers of stone seats set in a circular amphitheater. The stage is a little
circular area at the foot of the rows of seats. All very simple and efficient.
We estimate well over 1,000 people were in attendance, of the 3,000 or so
off-season inhabitants of Mykonos. The children were all in costumes very much
like Americans would expect to see at Halloween. Superman, Spiderman, Minnie
Mouse, pirates, princesses etc. were all very cute. The School Band performed,
of course. (Music lessons have been taught in the school only since September,
so let your imagination run wild with this scene.) All very much small-town fun,
and we loved it.
By the way, EVERYBODY joins in the fun!
Monday was Ash Monday, and the first day of Lent, so the fasting began in
earnest. No meat, cheese or dairy products until Easter. So the tradition here
is to have a party (nothing new there), but only serve seafood. We went to the
most remote part of the island (about a 10-minute drive away) to a picnic
sponsored by the Boy Scouts. Each family brought food enough for themselves and
the Scouts grilled fresh octopus for everybody. Five hundred pounds of octopus!
We sat with our friends on the porch and watched the festivities. Near us,
several men brought their instruments, so there was music and dancing
(surprised?) all afternoon. There was a fund-raising raffle – Scouts are the
same everywhere when it comes to raising money - and prizes for the highest
flying kite, etc. We stayed until sundown, and people were still coming in. Boy!
These Greeks sure do know how to party! (Did I already write that?)
Dimitra and Ioannis introduced us to their lifelong friends, Theodoris and Ireni.
Theo has the grandest smile you’ve ever seen. Sharon began waving to him on her
morning run back in October which is how all these associations really began.
Anyway, they invited us to “coffee” which was a four course meal; spinach pie,
grilled sandwiches, sausage and turkey omelet and homemade bread. It was
scrumptious. While there, Theo got a call from his friend. He returned to the
table looking panicked. Turns out his friend and neighbor had two ailing sheep
that needed calcium injections. (Most of the natives have a couple dozen animals
running around and, of course, a full garden. We always leave friend's homes
with fresh eggs. Last week we ate Dimitra's rooster!) So Theo had to run off to
help. But the house we were sitting in was his great-grandfather's. It was two
rooms. There were NINE children and two parents living in the house. It had no
electricity or running water until 1974. The roof was made of seaweed, bamboo
and cement. It has since been refurbished and it's charming. The whole
experience was wonderful.
We made a quick trip over to Syros in early February to check on the boat and
get a few preliminary projects started. All is well there. One evening as we
were walking home from dinner in town, we heard someone calling “John! Sharon!
Over here!!” Who could know us in Syros? We turned to find Josef, the Albanian
stonemason who has been working at Costas’ house. He insisted we join him and
his friends for a coffee, and we met six or seven more Albanians who were
traveling with him. Now we run into these people all over town! It is simply
amazing how our circle of friends has suddenly grown. We are really going to
miss Mykonos when the time comes to leave in April.
But leave we must, and April will find us back on Syros getting Seraphim ready
for another season of adventure. We are beginning to plan the summer’s voyaging;
keep watching this space.
Γειά σος!
Chapter Thirty-Two December 15 – January 10, 2007
This chapter is a more detailed itinerary than usual to give you some idea of
the “whirlwind” Christmas holiday we have just experienced. Costas planned an
action-packed two week tour. And what a tour it was!
It all began on Tuesday, December 19 when we boarded the early ferry in Mykonos.
We were to drive north to Trikala where we would be met along the highway by
Costas’ longtime friend, Thanasis. Thanasis greeted us and made us feel at home
immediately. Once he had us securely in our hotel, he departed and we had a fun
dinner at the local grill house behind the hotel. Trikala was all decked out for
the holidays, and the lights and festive atmosphere put us solidly into the
holiday spirit.
Costas met us the next morning, and our “Tour” started in earnest. The sun was
shining brightly, so it made for a great day to visit Meteora, where the
monasteries seem to hang in the sky as if by magic. The two monasteries we
visited were “staffed” by very informative nuns and monks and their guidance
added so much to our tours.
Thursday Thanasis joined us again after our tour of the largest monastery in
Meteora, Moni Megalou Meteorou. The cloudy, foggy day did not interfere with our
visit to this magnificent edifice and its fabulous exhibits and museums.
Thanasis gave us a tour of his cotton gin, which was running the season’s
harvest from the surrounding area. As we drove around Lake Plastiras, Costas and
Thanasis convinced us that it was really there but the fog was so thick we only
had but a momentary glimpse of it. The ride was a real treat anyway.
Friday brought us at last to Thessaloniki. We had so been wanting to meet
Costas’ family, and now here they were, in the flesh. We must admit to some
apprehensions about meeting them; how could they ever be as wonderful as he? But
our “concerns” were put to rest as soon as we met Maria, Amalia, and Sotiris. We
were welcomed with such love and warmth that we knew immediately they were every
bit as wonderful as he. Sharon joined Maria at Amalia’s ballet recital while
John got acquainted with Sotiris as they walked through downtown Thessaloniki,
which was all decked out for Christmas with lights and decorations everywhere.
Sharon loved seeing Amalia perform; she was definitely the best of the troupe.
Now it really felt like Christmas!
The next morning we toured the newly rebuilt Museum of Archaeology. Here we
learned more about Macedonia and its history. The exhibits told the story of how
this area has been inhabited for thousands of years, with the city itself dating
back to the 3rd century B.C. It is beautifully done. Costas and Maria urged us
home early for a “rest” before the evening’s activities. We joined them and
friends at the fabulous Milos Club to hear the up-and-coming band “Onirama.” We
cannot remember such a good time; John even danced to the Disco music! But
morning came very, very early as we didn’t come home until 5:00 a.m.
Sunday was Christmas Eve; we drove to Naoussa, Maria’s home town. There we met
her parents, Amalia and Grigoris. Another late night, as we dined at the local
country hotel with Costas and Maria, and Maria’s sister Elsa and her boyfriend,
Jordan. The hotel is set in the beautiful Ag. Nikolas Forest, at the base of the
mountain home of the local ski resort. The dinner was great fun, and we enjoyed
listening to the bouzouki music and watching traditional Greek dancing. The
dining room was packed with people enjoying Christmas Eve with their families.
Christmas Day was bright and clear, but without the expected snow. All through
Naoussa local groups lit huge bonfires to warm the infant Jesus. Only in Naoussa
do they do this; we saw it on the national TV News later that night.
The day began with a visit to Maria’s cousins, also in Naoussa. Her uncle
Konstantinos’ house was decorated as though it were in suburban Chicago, USA. He
had lived in the USA for several years, and brought the traditions back to
Naoussa with him. We met all the aunts, uncles and cousins on her father’s side
of the family, and what a great bunch of people they are. One very cute nephew
(about 11) insisted on sitting near us so he could listen in and practice his
English. The Christmas Feast at Maria’s house was something out of this world.
There was enough food to feed an army, and dishes upon dishes of local
delicacies. (Even the pig was local!) Maria’s parents could not have been more
gracious; they even wrapped presents for each of us. Later that evening, Maria’s
other cousins came calling which meant yet another feast and warm family
gathering. Such a wonderful way to spend Christmas!
But we were not through. The next day we again went visiting and touring with
the family. First to Edessa and its fabulous waterfalls. Costas’ friend, another
Costas, took time out from his family to give us the personalized tour of the
city. The water really defines Edessa as it runs through the streets on its way
over the falls. At the bottom of the falls is the now-defunct hemp factory. This
“modern” factory used the falling water to turn out hemp rope from 1912 until it
closed in the 1960s, hemp rope being replaced by modern synthetics. The
municipality has turned the factory into a tourist attraction, complete with
restaurant, museum, and even a disco. Costas gave us a great tour of the
factory, the old town and the falls; we even climbed down the cliff and walked
under the falls as the water poured down all around us.
Lunch was in a great taverna in Ag. Athanasios. This formerly-abandoned mountain
village has recently been resurrected as a vacation village for the nearby ski
center. Here we were just over the border from what was formerly Yugoslavia.
Also, here were more friends of Costas and Maria. (Is there nowhere in Greece
they do not have friends?) We visited with the friends in their newly-completed
villa and nestled into warmth of the fire. A long, but wonderful day.
“So,” you say, “are there no antiquities in this part of Greece? You haven’t
mentioned a museum in ages.” Ha! You have no idea! This is, after all,
Macedonia. And Macedonia is home to Alexander the Great, so antiquities were
surrounding us on all sides. Just as though to prove the point, the following
day Costas and Maria took us to Vergina. And Vergina is where Alexander’s father
is buried. I say “Is” because the tomb was found completely intact, with the
bones of Philip II just as they were placed in the tomb in 336 B.C. Here we
walked in Alexander’s footsteps, as they say in the brochure. The tomb exhibit
is simply amazing, and anyone coming to Greece has to put this spot on the top
of their “Must Do” list. The artifacts found in the tomb are displayed (very
well, as usual in Greece) just as they were found, and the treasure is
spectacular. The funerary wreath alone is worth a fortune; the gold work is
exquisite.
After lunch in a local ouzera, we had a quick walk around Veria. Veria is an
ancient city in its own right, but is somewhat overshadowed by the wonders of
Vergina. There is one “wonder” for which Veria still stands alone: Revani. This
unique dessert is made from a secret recipe that is handed down from generation
to generation, and it is made better here than anywhere else in Greece. It is
said that the last family member to hold the secret recipe refused to marry for
fear the recipe would be divulged! Whatever the secret, it was great!
On Thursday our first stop was the area Aristotle used as a school when he was
tutor to Alexander. (Yes, “that” Aristotle, and “that” Alexander.) We walked
through the area, which is just off to the side of the road set in among the
fruit farms. No big deal. Then we toured the ruins and museum at Pella, the
capital of Phillip’s and Alexander’s Macedonia. Along the way, we took in some
ancient Macedonian tombs that were found when they were building a modern road.
What else is buried here? Who knows? After another “feast,” this one a sort of
“farewell luncheon” at Maria’s parents’ house (how wonderfully they treated
us!), we drove back to Thessaloniki. And collapsed. But only for a moment.
Next day was another tour to visit Costas’ “other summer house” in the seaside
resort of Sani. This is where we’ll bring Seraphim in the spring, and it is
quite a fabulous place. The house is nestled in among the pine trees and is
gorgeous. In May we will take Costas and his family and friends sailing for a
few days. Maybe we’ll even host a party!
Sunday was New Year’s Eve, and we spent it with Costas and his family (of
course), and dinner was again a feast. And all of it scrumptious. Costas’ father
and his wife were with us and we now know where Costas gets his intense interest
in American politics. The evening was a wonderful way to conclude a year like no
other. As we reflected on all that has happened to us this past year, how far we
have come and how much we have experienced, we find it almost too good to be
true. We started out in Sabaudia twelve months ago, and now we close out the
year in Thessaloniki. Ottavio and Costas have given us so much, if only we could
somehow let them understand how much they have enriched our lives.
Thursday morning we left Thessaloniki, tired but filled with experiences to
digest. We have had a fabulous time, and are glad we had this time to be with
Costas, Maria and his wonderful family. Their generosity and hospitality are
hard to believe. But we had more ahead of us. Costas helped us map out a return
that included a stopover in the Pelion Peninsula. Because we got an early start,
we had the afternoon to drive around the mountain taking in the sights. The
charming villages of Portaria and Makrinitsa began the tour, then we headed up
the mountain to the ski resort at Hania. Unfortunately for the skiers, but
fortunately for us, there has not been much snow, so the roads were clear and
the crowds light. We secured the last available room in a small hotel in the
converted Karagiannopoulos Mansion. The mansion was built in 1791, and the
restoration was very tastefully done; we considered ourselves lucky to find a
room. In the evening we strolled through neighboring Milies and dined in the
local taverna. What a way to start the new year!
Before leaving the Pelion, we took another walk through Milies in the morning to
get some photographs. The rest of the drive to Rafina was uneventful; the ferry
was on time, and packed with people like we have never before seen it. When we
drove up to the house, Fredo came up to welcome us home (and to make sure we
were not burglars). The house is as we left it; clean and secure.
Result: The lives of two American visitors have been forever enriched by the
experiences of this journey. The sights, the history, the art are all embedded
in their minds. And the people in their hearts.
Chapter Thirty-One October 25 – December 16, 2006
We have now been in Mykonos for three months! It continues to amaze us, the
generosity of Costas and his family. Mykonos is beginning to “come alive” for us
in many ways. We have begun to get into a bit of a “daily routine,” although
each day brings some new experience to excite us. Today, for instance, Sharon
was driving out to go on her morning run, and a man she waves to daily stopped
her. The man speaks no English, but this morning he had a friend with him. In
English, the friend asked Sharon where in the United States she was from. When
she replied “Connecticut,” he whooped with joy. He lived in Connecticut for
thirty five years. He invited us to join him for coffee on Sunday, and perhaps
we’ll make another new friend. And so our “routine” outings of Greengrocer,
Baker, and maybe the Post Office becomes anything but routine. What a life!
In early November we had guests here for a week. Geoff and Ann-Marie have left
their boat in Kalamata for the winter. We gave them the island tour and then the
four of us set off to do some adventuring on the mainland. Our first stop was
the near-by island of Tinos. Tinos is the Greek Orthodox version of Lourdes.
Thousands upon thousands of pilgrims come each year. They come seeking healing,
and make their way from the harbor up the hill to the church housing the holy
icon on their knees; there is a rubberized strip alongside the street and up the
stairs to aid them on their way.
We came not only to see the icon, but to visit the many villages dotting the
hills. Although Tinos is quite small, there are 50-60 of these tiny villages on
the island, and they are a tourist destination of their own, many having but
50-100 inhabitants. In one, we were invited by an old woman to come inside her
little store and warm ourselves at her wood-burning stove. The store hasn’t
changed much in the past 75 years or so. Take a look:
We have to mention that Sharon was absolutely intrigued with the town
Laundromat. Well, wouldn’t you be!?
We also had the opportunity to visit our first working monastery, this one for
women. Very interesting was the little chapel by the cemetery, complete with
ossuary underneath. Here are the bones of sisters who have lived here through
the years, all neatly lined up along the shelves. The boxes contain the bones of
those who have died more recently; they have names and dates inscribed on them.
On this trip we decided not to make hotel reservations ahead of time. We know
that all the ferries are greeted by people with rooms to rent, and we thought we
could take advantage of the season and secure appropriate accommodations more
easily and cheaply this way. And we did. But no one told us that the